Monday, September 19, 2005

The Camp

There is so much to explain that I don't know quite where to start. My thoughts are going much quicker than I can possibly type. So, I'll just start with the basics...

Buduburum is home to around 40,000 Liberian refugees and has been in existence for 15 years. It's more of a settlement now than a refugee camp and has an economy of shops, small cafes, hair dressers and more cell phone services than seem necessary - all of which is generally fueled by remittances from relatives abroad. There is one UNHCR (United Nations High Commission on Refugees) clinic, but 44 churches, some of which run schools for the kids. Other than adequate access to health care and education, people appear to have their very basic needs met. When the camp was first established, there were outbreaks of cholera and typhoid and violence was not uncommon. Since then, a very rudimentary sanitation system has been devised and a voluntary police force and midnight curfew keep things relatively safe. Still, most do not have electricity and there are only 10 free wells from which to collect water (those who can pay for water service).

Because Liberians cannot work outside the camp and many cannot afford school, the camp is always bustling with people. There are a few main roads and an attempt to organize the camp by zones, but it is generally a labyrinthine sprawl and very easy to lose your bearings. Homes are concrete and corrugated tin build by the refugees, some of whom now even charge newcomers rent. The UNHCR provided some services in the early years, but pulled out during a period of intermittent Liberian peace only to come back in 2003. Their clinic remains one of the only clinics, but their wells are now useless and their attempt to institute a fee-for-use toilet is something of a joke. To be fair, there are more immediate and dire refugee crises that demand precious UNHCR services - but their presence in this camp outside of the occasional "donated by UNHCR" sign is virtually non-existent, from what I can see. Filling the gap, Liberians seem to have started quite a number of social service agencies (many church-affiliated) including a child-soldier support group and school for the deaf.

It's all quite impressive and sad at the same time. People seem hopeful and industrious, but there is an overwhelming waste of talent, and most I've talked to dream of better life outside the camp. Those who can keep improving their skills and getting more education, but there is little work to be had.

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Thanks to everyone who has supported my journey out here. The needs are overwhelming, and I only hope I can make some impact personally while I'm out here. But it seems that perhaps the most help I can be will be to relieve the burden on the Liberians who are working beside us as volunteers for the same cause.